Podere Pradarolo "Bianco Antico Vej" Malvasia 2022

Alberto Carretti's biodynamic estate in Emilia-Romagna. Malvasia macerated for six months on skins, no additions. Deep amber, honey, dried apricot, herbal complexity, real grip. The orange wine for people who want the real deal.

The vines grow in Varano de' Melegari, on the left bank of the Ceno River in Parma. The ground is Cretaceous clay, sandstone, siltstone and limestone, in a natural amphitheatre facing south. Altitude runs 250 to 500 metres, and a marine breeze keeps nights cool even when the days run warm.

Carretti macerates the Malvasia in cement, then moves it to stainless steel to finish, with native yeast doing the fermenting. It goes into bottle with no added sulphur, no fining and no filtration.

Alberto Carretti and Claudia Iannelli bought the property in 1972 to raise pigs for prosciutto. They planted vines in 1989 and went organic in 2004, the slow build behind an estate now known for pushing skin contact further than most. Pour it below room temperature, next to roast chicken, mushroom risotto or a washed-rind cheese.