Cascina Fornace Nebbiolo 2018

Roero is the Nebbiolo zone on the left bank of the Tanaro — softer, sandier soils than Barolo, often producing more aromatic, perfumed wines at gentler prices. Aged Nebbiolo with proper time in bottle: tertiary leather, dried roses, tar, over a still-fresh red fruit core.

Brothers Enrico and Emanuele Cauda started Cascina Fornace in 2009 at Santo Stefano Roero. They work three and a half hectares of steep, sandy hillside at about 350 metres. The Nebbiolo vines are 50 to 60 years old. The whole estate makes around 16,500 bottles a year.

The farming is organic, and the cellar work stays out of the way. Fermentation runs on wild yeasts, and the wine goes to bottle unfined and unfiltered with very little sulphur. What you taste is the vineyard, not a house recipe.

With eight years in bottle, the 2018 sits in its drinking window now. Open it an hour ahead and serve it just under room temperature. It wants slow-cooked beef, game, or aged cheese.