Cirillo '1850' Grenache 2017

Cirillo claim the world's oldest Grenache vines — planted around 1850 in the Barossa. Mature 2017 vintage — concentrated, savoury, properly aged.

The vines sit on sandy soil in Seigersdorf, in the Light Pass corner of the Barossa, planted around 1848. Sand this deep kept phylloxera out, which is the only reason vines this old are still bearing fruit.

Vincent Cirillo emigrated from Calabria in 1946 and bought the block in 1970. In the 1980s, when the government paid growers to pull vines like these, he refused. His son Marco makes the wine now, basket-pruned and farmed organically, matured in aged, seasoned hogsheads that add almost no oak character.

This 2017 is already a few years past release, so it drinks savoury rather than fruity. Pour it with lamb, game or a hard cheese and let it sit in the glass a while.